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Quickie Construction Plans Changes


While every attempt has been made to ensurethe accuracy of the reproduced information below, this should not be considered a replacement for documents, newsletters and advisories provided byQuickie Aircraft Corporation.



The RE3S7 rod ends used in the control system are replaced by the F31-14 rod ends. 25/june/78


The orange foam size has changed from a nominal 23" x 71" to 23" x 60". The layout on page 4-7 of the Quickie Construction Plans has a nominal scale of 1" = 10". Some modification of the layout may be necessary. The Quickie Kit contains four pieces of 23" x 60" and one piece of 23" x 15" of the orange foam. See page 6 of these QPC notices. 25/june/78


The 0710-153 fitting in the pitot static systems has been replaced by a 0711-153 fitting. 25/june/78


Page 9-1; To avoid confusion, it should be noted that the two "uni crossed at 45 degrees along the entire span" comment on the TOP WING layout refers to the 8 arrows crossed at 45 degrees on the TOP WING layout. In general one arrow is used for each ply of glass, therefore, the 8 arrows should be changed to only 2 arrows, each at 45 degrees to the trailing edge of the wing. See the bottom wing picture for the correct picture. 5/july/1978


Page 7-2, the dimension for bending the seatback bulkhead is missing. 5/july/1978


Page 6-2; Additional comments on hot-wiring the elevator foam cores may help you avoid having problems. The "Front Foam Piece" is hot-wired from the complete elevator foam core; see Appendix sheet 3 and notice the line A-C on the elevator foam core templates. Cut A-C after hot-wiring the basic core so that you can hot-wire C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-C-A to allow for the aluminum torque tube. Next you can make another hot wire cut to make the "Front Foam Piece", being careful to allow room for the CS16 torque tube to slide into the core from the front. Study page 6-2 and Appendix Sheet 3. 6/july/1978


The drawing below indicates the canopy trim line. Attachment 1 (2 pages) is quite a few words from our canopy subcontractor, Crowley, Inc. on cutting and caring for your canopy. This information is a supplement to the Quickie Plans, Chapt. 15. 7/july/1978


Now that you have your canopy what are you going to do with it? You can place it between two chairs and sit under it making engine noises and logging time, but it is really why you bought it?. Sooner or later you are going to trim the

monster and that can be a very harrowing experience the first time.

There are two tools you can use without going to a lot of expense and time building a cutting fixture. They are both very useful on the rest of the aircraft. The fastest is a rotary grinder - 1/4 hp, single speed is adequate and available at Sears and other stores. With the rotary use a cut-off wheel, preferably 2 inch diameter, 1/4 inch shank and 1/16 thick. This thin a cut-off wheel is hard to find, try the industrial supply shops. The other good tool is any Dremel tool with a saw blade. Always use a fast speed and don't push,

let the tool do the work. When you cut plastic the chips really fly so use a face shield. A bit of plastic in the eye is very hard to find, even if it feels like a boulder. Don't even consider a saber saw for plastic. If you do manage to trim a canopy with one, without a disaster you are very lucky.

Coat the canopy with SprayLat or mask well. Use masking tape to mark your cutting line well per plans. It doesn't disappear in a cloud of plastic chips as easily as marking pen or grease pencil lines. If you are using SprayLat put it on the canopy thick about a day or two before you plan to trim so it can cure. DO NOT try to cut a cold canopy. It is almost certain

you will have cracks in the wrong places as they fracture very easily. Bring your canopy into a warm room, about 75-80 degrees and give it a few hours to warm up to room temperature before you start trimming. Plastic is slow changing temperature so don't rush it.

Place the canopy on a large flat table, bubble up, with three or four 2 x 4's crossways under it so the whole thing is supported level a bit off the table. Keep it this way the entire time you are working and trimming on it so you don't accidentally twist or stress it in some way. The cut should be made with the cut-off wheel or saw blade just barely deep enough to completely cut through the plastic.

The point at which the side turns toward the nose is the most delicate part and subject to fracture because of flexing outward. This can be prevented by taping gently across the bottom with duct tape. Don't pull the tape real tight, but do have the tape tight enough across the bottom so it doesn't

spring out when pressure is eased at that point. This is the place to start your trimming on the flange just a bit toward the rear of the turning point work parallel to the bubble on up toward the nose of the canopy and straight on out to the edge of the flange. You have actually cut off a triangle. Do the same thing to the other side. Be sure the canopy is steady

and does not vibrate as you cut. Next trim off the entire side flange, one side then the other. The last part is to trim off the back bubble. Have your masking tape around it and at the correct angle as per Plans. Use duct tape across the bottom, just before and just after where you are planning to cut so the canopy can't spring out. The center top is a good place to start. Cut two or three inches down one side and put a strip of tape across the cut. Work from the center down a few inches at a time on one side and then the other side and tape the two pieces together as you go so the two halves can't spring apart and split. Hopefully you now have a trimmed canopy.

A file and sandpaper on the edges will smooth them up nicely. Work your way from coarse to fine sandpaper so all your cutting marks and rough places are gone and the edges have a slight radius. Be sure the canopy is well supported while you are working on it, and do not allow it to flex or chatter or

vibrate. Sand the area where the glass cloth and epoxy will be and you are ready to do the framing lay up. Anytime you are working on the canopy especially if you are going to be flexing it have it in a warm room.

If a crack does start stop drill it immediately. Be sure you drill at the end of the crack or it will keep on running. A new canopy does not deserve a nice new drill. Use an old dull drill or make it dull by filing off the cutting lip vertically. Don't push the drill, use a high speed and let the drill scrape it way through. A small piece of wood held lightly on the back side will help.

Masking tape and plastic left together for several weeks become one, so remove your masking tape. If it is stuck good, lighter fluid will help part the two and get the gooey off. SprayLat does not need to be removed as long as it is not stored in the sun over a prolonged period of time.

There are many good plastic cleaners and polishes on the market at auto supply stores. Use a soft cloth like flannel and do not wipe dust off of the canopy. It will scratch. If the canopy is very dirty rinse it off with water first and then polish it.

Have a happy time building and flying.

Cowley Ind.

Mojave Airport, Bldg. 170

Mojave CA. 93501

Phone (805) 824 2368


Page 7-6; FUSELAGE AFT TOP sketch; The arrow with 50 underneath and 3.5" on top should be changed so that 45 replaces 50. The 3.5" number is correct. 16/july/1978


Page 1-1; TABLE OF CONTENTS; Chapter 14 has 6 pages total rather than 7 pages. 25/aug/1978

QPC 10

Pages 5-3 and 5-4; Lt. Canard BL49 to BL88 and LT. Canard BL10 to BL49 shown incorrectly in plans. See both sketches below for correct layout. 25/aug/1978

*** QPC 1 thru QPC 10 are included in each Quickie Aircraft Kit.

QPC 11

Page 5-3; VERTICAL FIN; the 3.8" dimension should be 4.8". If you have already hot-wired the section using 3.8", repair by adding a scrap piece of the blue foam to the root leading edge and carve to approximate airfoil shape to achieve the 4.8". Since root end is inside the fuselage, airfoil shape is not critical. 5/sept/1978

QPC 12

Page 9-4; BL52 wing jig template should be 0.3" less height than shown. 5/sept/1978

QPC 13

Page 7-14; Left canopy stiffener should be made 1.2" x 30", instead of 1.2" x 25". If already made, you may splice the extra 5" on the FORWARD edge using two BID at the joint. 5/sept/1978

QPC 14

Page 16-1; Pitot Tube layout; to avoid confusion, let pitot tube project 2" down and 3" forward of where it exits the canard at BL 34. 5/sept/78

QPC 15

Page 16-1; It may be necessary to trim the Instrument Panel so that there will be a 1/16" clearance around the circumference after the shock mounts are installed. 5/sept/1978

QPC 16

After the ailerons, rudder and elevators have been rigged in place so that the ends have been trimmed for clearance, glass the ends with one BID to protect the foam. 5/sept/1978

QPC 17

Page 1-1; TABLE OF CONTENTS; Chapter 14 has 6 pages, not 7.


QPC 18

Page 7-8; FUSELAGE SIDE Layout; STA 172.0 offset should be -0.5" rather than 0.5" 5/sept/1978

QPC 19

Page 12-1; The 1" square x 1/4" thick of aluminum should be made from two pieces of 1/8" thick aluminum bonded together with epoxy. 4/jan/79

QPC 20

Page 14-3; The hole in CSA 1 for the pitch control rod was not

predrilled. It should be located 2.55" up the stick from the lower pivot hole. 4/jan/79

QPC 21

Page 12-3; One of our builders modified our fuel cap/fuel filler design by using PVC elbow (60-80 degree) from a drain pipe and a 2" EMT cable protector as a cap. 4/jan/79

QPC 22

Page 7-7; The illustration caption should call out the right side rather than the left side. 4/jan/79

QPC 23

Page 8-3; The MS27039-1-16 bolts are changed to MS27039-1-24. As an alternative an AN4-14A bolt, countersunk, could be used. 4/jan/79

QPC 24

Page 5-3; The BL49-BL88 Left rudder sketch is reversed. 4/jan/79

QPC 25

Page 17-5; Prop Installation Drawing; One of the AN4-22A bolts should be put in from the bottom of the drawing so that the balance is not thrown off. 4/jan/79

QPC 26

Page 17-5; ES1/Prop Clocking; this drawing should show that the ES1 counterbalance weight is along the same axis as the keyway in the engine crankshaft. 4/jan/79

QPC 27

Page 10-1; Spar caps for the Top Canard; Cap J is 7" wide by 120" long. Cap L is 5" wide by 60" long. 4/jan/79

QPC 28

The 3/8" o.d. by 0.062" Polyflo tubing is not compatible with fuel and should be replaced for fuel lines with 1/4" I.D. vinyl tubing which is shipped with all new kits, or black automotive fuel line tubing, available at most automotive parts stores. 26/Mar/1979

QPC 29

Page 17-5; The MS24693-S50 screws are replaced by AN507-1032-R10 screws. 26/Mar/1979

QPC 30

Page 17-4; In order to permit greater throttle travel in the cockpit, the throttle cable and carburetor push-pull tube pivot points on the governor assembly may be switched with each other. This will require bending the carb push-pull tube to avoid interference with the carb body. 26/Mar/1979

QPC 31

Page 17-4; The washer under the head of the AN4-22A bolt must be a large diameter washer to provide even pressure on the rubber mount as you tighten the bolt up. A hardware store washer is OK. 26/Mar/1979

QPC 32

Page 17-2; The AN4-22A bolts (3) have been changed to AN5-22A bolts. All builders have been sent the new hardware at no charge. The builder will be required to drill out the ES5 spacer for the larger diameter bolts. This change is MANDATORY and must be completed before any further flying. Also note QPC 31. 20/July/1979

QPC 33

By the 300 hour total engine time mark, change the aluminum coil mount to an identical one made of 4130 steel. There is evidence of fatigue problems with the aluminum one on N77Q at the 650 hour mark. 16/April/1981

QPC 34

Immediately remove and inspect the QCSA7 weldment for signs of cracks or impending failure. Continue this inspection periodically every 50 hours until further notice. 24/June/1981

QPC 35

Install light spring on the throttle so that the engine goes to full throttle in the event of cable failure. March 2, 1983