QuickTalk 16 - Q2 HINTS
- Details
- Category: Q-Talk Articles
- Published: Saturday, 30 June 1984 07:11
- Written by Jim Masal
- Hits: 2512
From Jim Masal (#457)
1. While in Mojave, I came across a Q-2 painted in a white primer. This was JUST the answer to my prayers, since my Quickie has to stay outside now that it's too big for my garage. The primer is Dupont 3010S Preparakota and is supposed to have some UV barrier in it. It's just the thing for someone who wants to do his test flying in primer so that he won't mess up a new point job in this "learning" phase.
2. A perfect item for those touch ups of dinged paint has hit the paint and auto stores lately. Its called PREVAL AUTO SPRAYER and is comprised of a small aerosol canister with spray head screwed to the top of a refillable 6 oz bottle. You can spray any tint you can mix and replace the canister when you run out of gas. Cost of the whole unit is about $3.50.
3. Bob Owen found his Q-2 swerving in one direction on landing rollout causing some anxious seconds in his life. He eventually traced this to a low tire on the side of the swerve. Don't leave any stone unturned, CHECK YOUR TIRES BEFORE FLIGHT.
4. A handy way to control your dispensing of micro is to store it in empty syrup or shampoo bottles - the plastic kind that have the pull up or flip up tops. You can control waste and dispense exactly the amount you need.
5. Glassing wheel pants can be made easier by cutting a newspaper pattern, taping various pieces together until only the inside portion underneath the canard is uncovered. Take the paper pattern off the pant, lay it out flat on your glass cloth and cut out a single piece that almost covers the entire pant. Care and patience will keep the shape from distorting during the layup. This technique can be used in other irregularly shaped areas as well.
First flight of my Q2 301DT was made at Mojave April 29, 1984. Construction started Sept. 1982 and the finish process began June 1983. I'm flying with a white primer until the test flying is completed. Empty weight is 583. I flew the first time in a 20 mph wind straight down one of the shorter runways at Mojave, which limited me to using the one out of size runway because of strong crosswinds. So now I wait for no wind until I can handle light crosswinds. I made high speed runs up to 55 which gave me confidence to go on that first flight.
The aircraft flew beautifully. I felt all the work building it was suddenly worth the effort. I had experienced the ultimate reward for a pilot--to build and fly my own airplane. I stayed up for about 45 minutes in the pattern making several low passes to the runway and when I decided to land I discovered moderate turbulence over the threshold which tossed me around a bit so I made go-arounds until I felt I had made it down to the runway for a safe landing. All the elevator was used up before I touched down so I bounced in from about 5 or 6 feet and felt helpless except for using more power, so I applied power the same time that I bounced and began climbing immediately which gave me the feeling that the bird really flies like it should. Fortunately, I have the T-Tail installed so the second landing was much better with trim being used.
As for any helpful hints: (1)my ailerons were low--adjust 3/16" above main wing to get more elevator; (2) reflexer or T-Tail a must to assist in trim and more elevator; (3) wait for no wind conditions; (4) change fuel filters before flying--I just heard of a Q2 engine failure after 5 hours of flight; (5) taildragger time before flying your Q2--helps getting used to more rudder control for takeoff and landings; (6) try to get a ride in a Q2--note hints for safety on landings.
Don Tracy (#2266)
From John Hoxie, #2590:
1. (Page 14-3) Here is the method I used to fit my fuel tank. Draw station lines across the body where the front and rear of the fuel tank goes. Put a profile template about 8" either side of BL00 extending between the two station marks you just made. Fashion a marker about 2' long. (I used a strip of sandwich foam and glass about 1" wide, rounded corners on one end and drilled a hole in that end to insert a pencil. The lead was about 1" out from the sandwich.) Keeping the marker perpendicular to BL00 and the lead constantly on the side of the body, run the marker so that it traverses along both templates, i.e. parallel to the water lines. This will give an approximate fuel tank profile along the sides of the plane. Measure and mark every 2"-3" along each of the lines marked above. Measure and record the distance between fuselage sides at each of these marks. Every 1" of waterline on the vertical will be sufficient. Transfer all these measurements to the fuel tank. I use 1/2" masking tape to connect these points for a natural and definite cutting line. Cut the tank along these lines. Mark a line on the outside of the fuel tank, front and rear at BL00. Ensure these are always aligned with BL00 on the bottom of the fuselage. Put the fuel tank in and align it over the marks on the fuselage. Using a drawing compass or similar tool, adjust the opening for the widest vertical gap. (Probably at or near BL00 front and rear.) Keep the two points of the compass in a vertical line with the marking point on top. Move the compass so that it follows the contour of the fuselage bottom, thus marking a line on the fuel tank an equal distance OVER (not away from) the fuselage bottom below. It is extremely important to always keep the compass in a vertical attitude. The line on the tank should get closer to the sides of the fuselage the further up the side you draw. For the sides, draw two lines an inch apart, one over the other, forward or aft of the tank. The two lines should be drawn on the fuselage sides at the same height as the average level of the top part of the tank. Extend a straight edge from the bottom line straight up in the air. (A small level works great.) Now measure the horizontal distance between the top line (marked on the fuselage) and the straight edge. This method works where the compass won't fit. The rear end will have to be beveled to get an accurate final trim. Use the marks to obtain a ratio and eventual tape line.
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