Q2 Plans Chapter 10 Page 10-04
- Category: Q-2/Q-200 Plans
- Published: Sunday, 21 May 2006 10:05
- Written by Quickie Aircraft Corporation
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LAMINATING THE BOTTOM SKIN AND BOTTOM SPAR CAPS
..... Study the two sketches labed "Bottom Canard Lamination", and "Top Canard Lamination" very carefully.
.....In this section, you will only be doing the "Bottom Canard Lamination", but that one should keep you and two others busy for about 3 hours. (The third individual mixes epoxy while the other two do the lamination).
.....To summarize the lamination, first you will laminate the wing skin, which is 2 plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the canard shear web, and then you will 1aminate spar caps A thru F .
.....Organize your shop for the big layup. Measure the canard cores, and cut the UNI for the main wing skins, labeling each one for identification.
.....Rather than have you reread and use the section on "Laminating the Bottom Skin and Bottom Spar Caps" that you used for the main wing, we are going to reprint and rewrite it here. (It helps make the plans look more complex).
.....The first UNI ply is put on at 45 degrees to the canard shear web T.E.. The fibers must be straight, so take your time getting the wrinkles and kinks out. Don't get ahead of yourself on pouring micro slurry on the foam; otherwise, by the time you are ready to place the UNI over a particular area, you will have a messy, hard, lump of slurry. On the other hand, with the experience you have had on the main wing, you should be within 10% of the miximum laminating speed that you will ever obtain. Work with one piece of clath at a time, and with small batches of slurry and epoxy. Unrolling the UNI cloth as needed is advised to reduce the awkwardness of the large pieces. Scrap UNI can be used to fill in any small spots not covered by the large pieces of UNI.
.....At the leading edge of the canard cores_ let the UNI cloth hang down vertically. Trim to within 1" of the tangent point, just like you did on the main wing. At the trailing edge (T.E.), allow the cloth to drape around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web so that the UNI is at 45 degrees to the T.E. on that face also. Trim the canard tip UNI to within i" of the canard core.
.....No overlap is required on the UNI wing skin; just use a butt joint.
.....The second ply of UNI is also place at 45 degrees to the T.E. of the canard core, but in the other direction from the first ply, so that the two plies of UNI will have their major fiber orientations at 90 degrees to each other. Try to avoid having the butt joints from the first ply of UNI coincide with the butt joints from the second ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI is also draped around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web, so that the shear web has two plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E. and at 90 degrees to each other. Trim all edges like you did on the first ply. As good laminators you will, of course, squeegee to the nth degree to remove any excess epoxy. By this time, if your floor does not contain enough hardened epoxy to build the Q3, you are either very accurate at mixing epoxy, or else you are not working hard enough at squeegeeing off excess epoxy.
.....Spar caps A thru F are laminated in that order, with the widest caps going on first. To pick up a spar cap and place it on the canard_ use three people. While one person holds each end o( the spar cap, the third removes any frazzles, being careful not to reduce the width below what is called out for the particular spar cap. That third person then stands at BLOO and positions the spar cap in the proper location (centerline on BLOO and proper distance from the leading edge of the canard) while the other two individuals keep the cloth off of the foam so that it won't stick. When the center (third) person is ready, one of the individuals holding an end lays it down spanwise on the canard in the proper postion (in relation to the canard L.E.) and removes any wrinkles and kinks. This can be a slow process, so keep your cool. Then the individual on the other end does likewise. The center individual makes sure that the spar cap smoothly "turns the corner on either end of the canard center section ewe.
.....Squeegee each spar cap from BLOO outboard. Work o_tJany wrinkles by pulling carefully on the fibers.
.....The remaining spar caps are each put on in a similar fashion. Although you may be getting tired, you must rise up to the occasion and concentrate on squeeging each spar cap well to avoid excess epoxy which leads to excess weight. Use extra epoxy very sparingly on the last spar cap. Every other spar cap (i.e. A, C, E, etc.) is allowed to drape over the T.E. and down the shear web to the bottom. Trim B, 0, F, etc. at the I.E.
.....Before quitting, peel ply all joints, and the first two inches of the canard L.E.. Also, knife trim the L.E. at the tangent point, just like you did on the main wing. Finally, clean up the mess, and DON'T TOUCH THE CANARD FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS.
INSTALLING THE CANARD STIFFENER
..... Build a framework out of scrap lumber and bondo to hold the canard jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the pictures in the MAIN WING chapter in the "Laminating The Top Skin And Top Spar Caps" section, we suggest that the lumber run from tip to tip with a few cross pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the main wing won't move.
.....Next, when you are sure of your framework)break loose the canard core female jigging templates with a hammer (they won't be needed again), and turn the canard over so that the unglassed cores are upward. Set the canard on the jigging table once again.
.....Check the canard tip level lines. Jig, and shim, and bondo until the canard tip level lines are absolutely perfect; almost, or maybe, doesn't count. Then use bondo to secure all of the jigging so that a jackhammer will be required to remove the canard from the jigging table.
.....You are now ready to install the canard stiffener. That stiffener runs along the top of the inboard canard foam cores and across the canard center section core. This foam stiffener that you previously hotwired out of the canard cores will be flimsy, so be careful with it. Clean up the canard slot that the stiffener rests in with a hard block and sand paper, so that the lamination you will be doing will transverse the joints smoothly. The glass ribs at either end of the canard center section will have to be trimmed back so as not to interfer with the stiffener. The lamination schedule, as called out in the sketch, is to layup 1 UNI first, then 2 BID, and then 1 UNI on top for the final ply. Take your time, and make the fibers straight. The 2 BID are laminated at 45 degrees to the spanwise direction. Knife trim the lamination flush with the top surface of the canard cores and let the lamination cure.
.....Next, install the foam stiffener with micro slurry. It is best to dry fit the part first, since it may be necessary to do some trimming, or else use dry micro to obtain a smooth fit. Don't worry if the top of the foam stiffener projects above the top canard surface a small amount; this can be trimmed back after cure.
.....Once the foam stiffener installation has cured, dig out the foam as shown and install two flox corners flush with the top canard surface. Also, install the flox corners on either end-of the canard center section core.
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