QuickTalk 15 - Q2 HINTS
- Category: Q-Talk Articles
- Published: Monday, 30 April 1984 07:11
- Written by Jim Masal
- Hits: 1313
From: Lynn Orr, #2814:
1. (Page 14-3) To my pleasure, my fuel tank turned out quite well. I saw three things wrong with the plans method of making the tank: 1. You need at least five templates to keep the foam from becoming wavy. 2. Foam is an excellent insulator; so it is hard to heat it clear through from one side without melting it. 3. A hair dryer will not provide nearly enough heat. For my construction, I set up the five templates with Bondo and fastened the large piece of foam to them with 5-Minute at the aft edge of the templates. I also used 5-Minute to hold the foam part way up the templates where the radius starts to get smaller. I laid a trouble light in between each template to heat the under side of the foam. To keep the heat from the lights in on the bottom of the foam, I had to cover the front of the templates where the smaller piece of foam goes later. Next, I put strips of 1" wide masking tape from the aft edge of the each template over the top of the foam and down the front of the templates. The tapes were readjusted as I heated the foam to pull the foam down around the templates. I used nine tapes, one over each template and one in between the others. I used an air popcorn popper to heat the topside of the foam. Two things happened to the masking tape as I heated the foam. First, when the heat hit the tapes, they lost all their adhesion to the foam. That is why the tapes had to run all the way to the back edge of the templates where I was not heating. Second, the tapes got hot and held the heat against the foam, so I had to be careful not to hold the popcorn popper over the tapes too long. After I cooled the foam and removed the tapes, the foam lifted off of the templates about an inch. However, it was easily held down with 5-Minute epoxy until the outside was glassed.
From Saylor Milton, #2484:
1. The carbon spars in the new Q2 canard act like metal in shielding radio waves. Therefore, I would think that it would not be a good idea to install antennas in the new canard.
2. (Page 10-8) In making the elevators, it is much easier to install and rivet the pivot assemblies, QCSM2, -3, -7, etc. in the CS16 torque tube BEFORE pushing them through the holes in the elevator foam cores and glassing, not after.
3. As QAC is now recommending the use of pour-in-place foam, I would like to pass on a few hints from my experience in using it. The X-40 sold by Aircraft Spruce is a good value, but don't try to shape or sand it for at least 12 hours after pouring. Although it sets up quickly, it is crumbly and weak until it cures for this time. If you need to fill in spaces with foam from the underneath, use this technique: Pour out the amount you need on a sheet of waxed paper and let it expand. When the foam is reasonably stiff, pick up the waxed paper from the bottom and slap it on the space to be filled. After the foam cures, remove the waxed paper and shape as needed.
From Ron Cross, #2397:
1. If you have two rolls of UNI cloth, you can save cloth by using one roll for pieces which require the fibers at 45 degrees and the other roll for pieces which require the fibers at 0 degrees.
From Bob Lane, #2592:
For you "Gray Tapers" looking for a good border on lay ups: Rough and Tough, Multi-Purpose Duct Tape. It's 6-mil polysomething or other, no epoxy stick, no threads, and works great. Doesn't have the heavy goo adhesive of most duct tapes. I found mine on sale at a local hardware store for $1.50.
I just received my first newsletter as well as the 1983 editions...QBA has already saved me several telephone calls for help as well as providing me with a number of good tips at my current building state. Well worth the cost of membership!
A couple of my personal observations--first I would like to say that Debbie Shubert and Ron Lundgren at QAC are both doing a hell of a job. They have both been of great help and all my letters, telephone calls, etc. have been answered promptly. (I use a computer to keep track of my correspondence, inventory, backorders--it amounts to quite a bit in the last three months.) Second, I would like to thank Bob McFarland for his great support; he makes the entire experience a joy.
Below a couple of tips I've found:
1. Buy an inexpensive sponge and use to spread micro when skinning foam. It's very difficult to clean micro out of a brush and it lessens your exposure to cleaning fluids.
2. I mounted inexpensive bull's eye levels into both armrests for a quick check when leveling the fuselage. Drill a hole and insert the level from underneath when glassing--the level will be flush with the top surface of the armrest providing a neat appearance.
3. When cutting in the premounted canopy--I cut out the aft canopy bulkhead and left a 2" wide bulkhead in its place. After locating FS 78, draw a line, place the canopy on top of the fuselage and trace a rough outline. Cut within an inch of the line. Continue this process several times using FS 78 as a guide. When the rear of the canopy and FS 78 are almost a perfect fit, SAND fit the fuselage for a perfect fit. Go slowly--the sandpaper bites away quickly. It took me five hours to do this but the results are worth it.
4. Inexpensive Tupperware type containers make good storage containers for micro and flox--keeps them dry too!
5. I put the date and time on my epoxy cups after a layup. Helps me when I check the quality of the mixture.
6. I keep the large ring binder with copies of all my correspondence, newsletters, etc. enclosed. Helps when you need to find information. (So does the word processing feature on my computer!)
Richard L. Kautz (Q2 2850)
"I soloed my Q2 in November 1983 and have flown it three times. My biggest hold-up has been bad weather, snow, ice and cold.
I have two particular problems that I'm trying to work out. The first is the plane will not land three-point because I can't seem to get enough weight in the tail. I presently have 6 lbs. of lead in the tailwheel and it still seems light. The second problem is when I use full throttle on my Revmaster, it seems to load up, skip and miss. I have cleaned and checked plug gap, adjusted the valves, changed oil to Pennzoil 10W-40W. I have also adjusted my Revmaster carburetor lean and rich.
If someone has had a similar experience or known something about either of my problems, would they please take time to let me know.
Otherwise, my Q2 has been a dream come true. After that first flight, all those long hours of building have started to melt away."
Karl Johnson (#2747), Ann St., Box 307, Mifflinville, PA 18631
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