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QuickTalk 9 - Q-TIPS

If the ailerons are formed according to instructions, micro will leak out around the tubing in the forward edge with possibly incomplete adhesion. Consider standing the aileron foam core vertically on the trailing edge before attaching the tubing. Gravity will help put the micro in the right place. Same principle applies for elevators. Attach the leading edge foam piece over the tubing with tape going completely around the foam core instead of using nails, which leave holes and do not insure a tight bond. (Thomas Stanton, #2321)

If you haven't used your epoxy ratio pump in several days, watch out! I hadn't used my pump in about a week and the first pump appeared to be lean on Part B resin, so I mixed it and set it aside. After several weeks it didn't harden! The Part B resin tends to harden when exposed to air. I think that the resin at the end of the tube thickened and partially clogged the tube. I suggest that all builders construct the balance shown in the plans and use it to check the pump when it hasn't been used in a while. Also, purposely mix some epoxy, which is lean on Park B resin and set it aside. Insufficient mixing can also get you in trouble. Stir some epoxy only 5 or 6 strokes and set it aside. It won't harden! Set these two cups of bad epoxy beside your epoxy pump as reminders of proper ratio and mixing.

It's hard to remember all the builder tips from QAC and QBA, so I put a section in the back of the plans to hold them. I sectioned them by function (e.g. canard, bulkheads, epoxy, hot wiring, etc.). Now before starting something, I can read the plans and then read all related sections in the part I added. (Ronald Cross, #2397)

I have found that using RAES (slow) epoxy system on a large layup gives 2-3 hours of tack-free working time. This allows plenty of time to squeegee off excess epoxy for a light layup. (Bill Merritt, #203)

Use lag bolts as "feet" for your jigging table. An open-end wrench makes them easy to adjust when leveling the surface. This is also an advantage when the table is occasionally moved. (Ray Isherwood, #2688)

My workbench had six adjustable legs (2x4 with 4" slot and 2-1/4" bolts to lock leg at desired length. My floor was slanted to drain and required this adjustment. (Philip Kelly, #2409)

To transfer the level lines from the template onto the ends of the cut foam, drill two 5/64" holes at opposite ends of the template on the center of the level line. After the template has been attached to the foam billet, carefully press a pop rivet (sharp end) into the two template holes you drilled earlier, thus making a matching hole in the foam. After the foam has been cut and the template removed, reinsert the pop rivets back in the foam core holes. The business end of the pop rivet should be facing you. Simply place a straight edge along the pop rivets and draw the level line on the end of the foam core. (Curtis Lambert, #2080)

A simple method of attaching tie downs can be done as follows and mounted on the bottom of the main wing just outboard of the spar caps. Drill and tap a 3" x 3" plate and a 1" x 1" plate of 1/4" aluminum for 1/4" x 20 thread. A third 1" x 1" plate should be made but not drilled. Rivet the three pieces into the assembly shown with four BSP-46 rivets. The small aluminum plate, which is not drilled, acts as a stop. I mounted mine flush with the surface and added two additional 8" x 8" plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the leading edge. When mounting, use a piece of threaded rod or a release agent to keep epoxy out of the hole. When ready to tie down the plane, simply screw in a 1/4" x 20 eyebolt. Since the eyebolt is not left in place during flight, very little drag is added. (Gary Wilson, #114)

For those who don't have access to a band saw, your jigging table provides a ten-minute compromise. Drill four holes in the base plate of a jigsaw, a hole through the jigging table for the blade, and mount the jigsaw upside-down under the table. Cuts are much simpler than when using a hand-held saw.

Cheap polyester fabric ($2/hd or less) squeegeed over a layup creates a cured surface, which should save hours in finishing. It is easier to apply than peel-ply, Saran Wrap, etc. Try it first to make sure the fabric will lift off after curing, iron out creases before you apply the fabric to a layup and don't bother trying to explain to your local fabric shop what the material is for! (Don Rutherford, #2026)

Drop a plumb line from a fixed point to a flat level table. At the point the plumb meets the table, drill a 1/4" hole and insert a 1/4" bolt or peg. Next drill one side of your wheel pant where the axle will go. Turn the wheel pant over on the table so the 1/4" peg goes into the hole. Drop the plumb again to the wheel pant and mark the point it touches the wheel pant. These holes are now exactly opposite each other and square with the wheel pant. (John Wirta, #2031)

The Weller "Mini-Shop" tool is NOT highly recommended. Mine lasted 10 months and died in a blaze of glory when the armature brush contacts failed at 25,000 RPM. My new Dremel is vastly superior in quality. (Bob Falkiner, #2015)

If a wooden screw hole becomes so worn it no longer holds the screw, stuff a few toothpicks and a couple drops of glue into the hole. This will give the screw a better bite.

Do small, but messy jobs such as gluing and painting on an old telephone book. When one page gets messed up, tear it off and work on a fresh one.

Store cans of paint upside down. This keeps a skin from forming on top of the paint.

When fastening wires to terminal screws, be sure the loops go clockwise around the screws. This way the wire will be drawn firmly around the screw as you tighten it.

If you ever have to hacksaw a bolt to make it shorter, do so with the nut screwed on past the point of the cut. Then when you remove the nut it will automatically clean up any threads damaged by the saw.

When splicing two-lead wires, always stagger the two joints. This makes for a neater splice and a safer one, with no chance for bare wires to come into contact.

Egg cartons make great storage for small parts.

Nails driven near the end of a piece of wood often cause splitting. This won't happen if you tap the point of the nail with your hammer to dull it before driving.

Rub the top of your screwdriver with a bit of chalk. It will grip better. Just like chalking a pool cue. (From "101 Work-Saving Tips")

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