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From George Edwards, #49:

1. (Large wheels, Page 20-3) Because of the small clearances between the wheel pants and tire, I felt that "opening up" the 1/4" bore-sighted axle pilot holes in the wheel pants is a critical operation. I used a Capewell #510 5/8" hole saw with a #55 Mandrel - but replaced the short 1/4" pilot drill in the mandrel with a 1/4" aircraft drill. Thus the pilot drill extended through both the inboard and outboard pilot holes in the pant, assuring no change in the alignment. "My wheels do not wobble in my pants." You can quote me!

From Jack Dempsey, #279 & Gloria Adams, #528:

1. (Page 15-5) On the fourth paragraph of the instruction for the forward canopy seal, it will be much easier if you cut the inside face of the canopy before layup of the three BID lip.

From Norm Sanford, #486:

1. When glassing the aileron and elevator slots, cut a semicircular squeegee out of a plastic lid to spread the epoxy around inside the slot where your regular squeegee can't reach.

From Jim Masal, #457:

1. 1. Here's a standard Q2 operation that makes a slick cowling fit. Trace the exact pattern of your final firewall shape to a sheet of plywood. Shape one-half of your cowling to fit flush with the inside of your pattern (NOT around the perimeter) and 5-minute it in place. At the inside joint, protect the cowling and pattern with tape, Saran Wrap, etc. and lay up a 3"- 4" tape at 90 degrees into the joint. Trim after this cures and you will have a cowling mounting flange to rivet to your firewall that will allow a flush fit between the cowling and fuselage with more stability than 90 degree aluminum tabs.

From Don & Kim Degner, #18:

1. (Pages 17-13, 14) Why build up CH6 and CH7 out of aluminum plates? We are using a Tinnerman clamp (Vendor code #PS10017-1-3 or Piper part #454 887). They cost about 20 cents each and have been used on aircraft heater controls for years.

From Dick Harmon, #344:

1. I just completed my carb heat box, which I thought had been laid up fairly "resin rich". I was surprised to find several pinhole leaks when I removed the foam with gasoline. Fortunately, my fuel tank is not yet installed and I can closely re-examine it. I would encourage other builders to do the same.

From Mike Conlin, #60:

I've determined that my actual CG location is much further forward than that calculated. By a physical weight shift in flight, my airspeed increases over 5 mph.

From Bruce Patten, #298:

1. If the altimeter reading drops during engine run-up, your static source is no good. Suggest that the external static ports on the Quickie be located under the arm rests.

2. Install a water drain back at the last bulkhead in the tail. I saw a dramatic demonstration of how much water can accumulate back there when Don Ralph's Quickie from Michigan was broken down for trailering.

3. Think about extending the main wing cover forward so that the fairing over the aft canopy bulkhead won't hit the wing leading edge when the canopy is opened.

From Neal Current, #399:

1. An answer to Terry Hall's letter on page 8 of QUICKTALK #5 about the electrical system follows. It is true that QUICKTALK #2 offered two undesirable alternatives to prevent or minimize the possibility of battery failure. They were to limit or control the engine RPM at all times to minimize overcharging or undercharging and to watch the voltmeter at all times. These would be hard to do even if you had an ammeter and the attention to these details would distract the pilot's attention.

QUICKTALK #3's suggestions didn't help much either. It was just explained in more detail how to mark a voltmeter for the minimum safe voltage to watch, how to charge the battery the night before a flight (a pain in the neck) and how to minimize battery discharge time prior to running up the engine. These are all very bothersome and perhaps unsafe solutions to the problem in other ways.

We have what we believe to be a satisfactory solution for most Quickie pilots, and one that requires a minimum of attention from the pilot. It sounds like that is the thing Terry is asking for. Perhaps now is the time to say that we have a solution but are not yet prepared to describe what we have done for our Quickie. If flight testing confirms the design and liability concerns are eliminated, we could publish a description in a future issue of QUICKTALK.

Terry is correct that the main problem is the voltage regulator, but its match to the small; light Yuasa 12N5 motorcycle battery (that it was not designed for) is also as aspect of the problem. The heavy-duty regulator Terry learned about from the Harley Davidson dealer sounds, from Terry's description, like it would have the same problems that the Quickie regulator has. Not knowing the details, I can't be sure. He should find out whether the automatic trickle charge begins to occur only after the terminal voltage of the battery reaches 14.0 V or so. That's the way the Quickie regulator works. The battery accepts only enough current to keep its voltage to 14.0 V. But what hurts is the high current that flows before the voltage reaches 14.0 V. There is no easy way to design a regulator, which has a tailor-made charge current for all states of discharge. Therefore, the only safe way to charge a battery if you don't know the discharge state is a trickle charge for a long time, like overnight (a generally unsatisfactory thing to do).

I would suggest that Terry call or write the manufacturer of the regulator, ask for the design engineer and inquire how the regulator prevents excessive charge current from flowing into the battery when it is more than 50% discharged up until the time the voltage reaches about 14.0 V, or the voltage value at which the regulator current is set to decrease and maintain the battery voltage of about 14.0 V. He should tell them the Quickie battery should have no more than 0.5 A until it is 70% charged and then no more than 1.5 A until it is fully charged. Also, while the battery is comfortably accepting the 0.5 A current initially, the alternator must concurrently supply the 3.0 to 4.0 A DC ignition current and other loads, since it can't come from the battery if you're replacing only 0.5 A. If the regulator doesn't meet these requirements, it will be similar to the Quickie regulator and may be a waste of money. A lot of investigation and even testing would be in order before spending the $77.90 for the regulator.

From the QBA staff:

The MAR/APR issue of QUICKTALK will have our feature on modifications and alternatives to the Onan engine. Several interesting ideas have already come in and we would like to hear of others. Please write QBA if you are aware of different systems being tried. We will follow up with an investigation. Our deadline is March 10th.

One report we hope to have ready is that of a new Onan engine on the east coast that produces 20 HP with an additional 100 rpm. An interesting side note is its use of graphite gaskets to prevent blow-by.

You can order a PDF or printed copy of QuickTalk #7 by using the Q-talk Back Issue Order Page.