Q1 Plans Chapter 11 Page 11-9
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- Category: Quickie Plans
- Published: Thursday, 04 September 2008 01:00
- Written by Dan Yager
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MOUNTING THE WHEEL
Begin by mounting the tires on the wheels. To do this, take the two wheel halves apart (note that an allen head tool is required), slide the two halves over LG8 (see below) after mounting the tire, and rotate the two halves until the 1/2” diameter tire tube hole (at the wheel halve split line) are lined up. Then, reassemble the halves with the allen head screws
Open up the 1/4” axle pilot holes in the wheel pants to 5/8” diameter.
The following procedure and sketches are for the left wheel, but the right wheel is a mirror image.
Make LG8 after carefully measuring the appropriate distance off of the wheel pant. The LG7 spacers are made out of 6061T6 Aluminum tubing of 7/8” diameter arid 0.125” wall. The LG7-bearing-wheel-bearing-LG7 length should be about 0.02" less than Distance “A”.
By inserting LG6 through the pieces to keep them in the proper position, you can slide the assembly up into the proper position inside the wheel pant. Next, slide and push LG8 from left to right slowly, pushing LG6 out the other side of LG3. When LG8 is resting between LG2 and LG3, center the AN970-3 washers on the holes and insert the AN3-44A bolt. The bolt must be tightened until it clamps up the LG7 spacers against the bearings. If LG8 is too long, it will prevent the clamping effect; if the LG7 spacers are too short, they won’t clamp up either. Therefore, you will have to do some trial and fitting to make things come out right. In the future, whenever you want to remove the wheel, use the LG6 piece, just reversing the above procedure.
ELEVATOR-WHEELPANT FAIRINGS
You currently have a large gap between the elevator and the wheelpant. Fill it by carving a block of blue or green foam to shape and glassing two plies over it, lapping up on the wheel pant and the face of CS19. Since the elevator will be at about -5 deg. at cruise, you may want to set the elevator in that position before carvings
POST-CURING THE CANARD
In order to prevent the canard from creeping because of the weight on it, it should be post cured before it is mounted on the fuselage.
Creeping is when the epoxy deforms because of heat and load. It can be minimized by heating the glass above the highest temperature that the glass will see in operation. If you were a multi-million dollar company, you would use a very large oven; however, painting the canard black with primer and setting it in bright sun will accomplish the same thing.
If you desire, you may want to skip to the finishing section and put the smooth finish on the canard before priming it. However, if you would prefer to do all of the finishing work on the aircraft at one time, you can just shoot some black primer on it and then clean it off later.
Black is used because it absorbs more heat and therefore gets the glass hotter. Expose the top and bottom of the canard to the sun. Check the temperature by placing the palm of your hand on several locations. If you can hold your hand on the surface for about 5 seconds,the temperature is right. Let the canard set like that for about 10 minutes. Do not let it get to hot.