Tri-Q Plans Introduction

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Category: TriQ Plans

Published on Monday, 15 November 2010 20:44

Written by Scott Swing

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The Tri Q conversion was developed for the average pilot who learned in a conventional nose wheel airplane.

The plans were developed after the installation was proven in actual flight testing by us. We tried to make the plans as easy to understand as possible but as always, parts of them may be difficult to comprehend for some people. We suggest that you go over the PLANS, DIAGRAMS, AND PICTURES, a few times before jumping into it. The main thing is to try and understand basically what you will be doing before you do it so everything will fall into place. While you are building, constantly refer to the diagrams and pictures to help clarify the words. If you are still having trouble with some part of the conversion, please call me and I will be glad to help you in anyway I can.

TRI Q CONVERSION OUTLINE

I. CANARD REMOVAL

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  • Carefully cut out canard
  • Support on jig table
  • Grind down left over fuselage left on the canard
  • Remove the wheel pants
  • Cut notch or notches and remove the anhedral (bottom flat)
  • Micro and re-glass the cut or cuts
  • Jig rudder peddles, toe brake assemblies, and master cylinder stand-offs, and bondo in place.
  • Glass all blocks in place (2 BID)
  • Check movement and fit of brakes and pedals
  • Re-install canard (2BID) (if without wing extension option)

II. WING AND CANARD EXTENSIONS (OPTIONAL)

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  • Hot wire foam extensions
  • Sand outer 3" of the wings down to glass
  • 5 minuite epoxy in place
  • Sand to fit (depends on application circumstances) Tip slice
  • Glass extensions with appropriate layers
  • Feather glass lay-ups, fill weave, prime, and paint
  • Install canard (2BID)

III. FUSELAGE MODIFICATION

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  • Draw centerline on floor and line up plane.
  • Remove the tail cone
  • Cut out all parts required out of materials supplied
  • Cut out triangular holes in the seatback bulkhead for front gear attach fittings.
  • Flox inserts in place
  • Sand smooth rounded corners
  • Glass inserts with appropriate lay-ups
  • Cut 6" rectangular hole behind the front attach fitting
  • Put plywood inserts in rear foam attach bulkhead
  • Micro bulkhead and sand smooth
  • Bondo bulkhead in place at edge of hole
  • Radius hole and remove finish 1. 5" from cut out
  • Glass .around the 6" wide hole onto fuselage and up onto front and rear attach fittings (2 BID)
  • Glass inside front attach support (9 BID)
  • Glass rear attach bulkhead (5 BID)
  • Glass rear attach bulkhead (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, & 11)
  • Locate holes for gear attachment and drill out to 3/8"
  • Install 1/8" aluminum bearing plates
  • Bondo triangular support in place and glass .( 2 BID) after gear has been fitted and removed

IV. MAIN GEAR FINISH AND MOUNTING

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  • Sand gear till all dull
  • Apply torsional lay-ups (8 UND)
  • Trim gear leg for brake assembly and install axles (preliminary)
  • Re-align fuselage and jig it in the appropriate position
  • Jig gear in place and mark attach location then sand it
  • Make the bushed aluminum tubes
  • Bondo the plywood tabs on the gear
  • Lay-up your glass tabs and drill holes
  • Trial fit the gear then remove and install the aluminum tubes
  • Now install the triangular supports
  • Install axles, wheels and brakes after adjusting camber and toe in
  • Route brake lines on rear of gear and glass (1 BID)
  • Fit rectangular cut fuselage piece back in place and glass (2 BID) unless using it for belly board option
  • Get fairings and wheel pants ready for installation
  • Install fairings and wheel pants

V. BELLY BOARD INSTALLATION (OPTIONAL)

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  • Fit the rectangular cut fuselage piece back in place
  • Prepare the board for use
  • Install hinge and connector on board
  • Build release mechanism and install
  • Fit the 1/4" plywood tab, route the cable and nylaflow tubing
  • Install the board and check for fit
  • Hook up the cable and adjust
  • Seal hole with cover piece between board and gear

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